1850 – 1900 Bloomers Sewing Pattern

I'm pleased to announce that I have a new 1850s sewing pattern available.

1850 – 1900 Bloomers, Turkish Trousers, or Knickerbockers Pattern

No. 1850-3
Perfect for Reform Dress or Victorian Sports Wear.
These trousers may be made in the wide Turkish style or a narrower width, from below-knee to ankle length. The leg ends may be enclosed in a cuff, confined with elastic, or left open at the bottom.
 

Turkish trousers, Bloomers, knickerbockers, and divided skirts are all names for what was basically the same garment with a few variations. It was also a part of what was called a freedom dress, rational dress, and health dress. As physical exercise became fashionable for women, it became a component in bicycling, mountaineering, swimming, and gymnastic wear. They were also a favored garment at masked balls and theater performance outfits. They even were used in evening gowns by the most daring ladies.

The pattern has several variations. The trousers may be made in the wide Turkish style or a narrower width, from below-knee to ankle length. The leg ends may be enclosed in a cuff, confined with elastic, or left open at the bottom.

It includes 12 pages of instructions with historical tips and quotes, and 2 pattern sheets printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a reclosable plastic bag.

All sizes included, 2 – 30; waist: 17” – 55”, hips: 27” – 63”.

You can find it on my website at https://www.mantua-maker.com/1850-1-bloomers.html 

The Art of Fashion: 1850 - 1859

I've just released my newest dressmaking book!

  The Art of Fashion: 

1850 - 1859

Dress, Sewing, and Clothing Care Advice

“To increase the beauty of the female person, by a gracefully made attire, is not only not wrong, but absolutely commendable; and the woman who neglects it pays the penalty of being called a sloven, if not a fright.”
Peterson’s Magazine, April 1852

During the 1850s, the art of fashion was studied by every woman who wanted to create her own wardrobe. Ladies magazines were scrutinized and dissected, scoured for details on how each effect was created, how many seams were used, and how the pleats were formed. She learned why changes were made, when they went out of date, and how to recreate the styles she liked.
Most of all, she studied what the current rules were, even though they seemed to change monthly, especially for the most fashion conscious women.

This book compiles sewing and fashion advice given in books and magazines during the 1850s, given in the words of writers of that time. Each entry shows the name and date of the periodical quoted. It has three sections:
1) Sewing tips and fashion advice
2) Fabric cleaning and care.
3) Bibliography of magazines and books I found useful.

The Art of Fashion: 1850 – 1859 includes over 490 black and white period engravings to help show the details of their work. It has 324 pages in an 8.5” x 11” format.

It's available on my website,

on Amazon,

and for Kindle.

New Victorian Corset Pattern

I'm thrilled to announce I have a new corset pattern available!

1840 – 1860 Corset di Medici Historical Sewing Pattern

My corset is based on a pattern diagram and instructions given in Peterson's Magazine in February and April, 1855.

“We give, this month, another pattern for stays, the Corset di Medici, so called because it does not cramp the figure, but keeps it as graceful and healthy as in the Venus di Medici. With the instructions we gave, in February, how to make stays, and this pattern, ladies, by the exercise of proper ingenuity, can fabricate this corset for themselves. The Corset di Medici is delightfully elastic, yielding to every motion, or respiration. It may be made in plain jean or coutil, or silk or satin. Always carefully measure, with a tape-line, across the bosom, from shoulder to shoulder, across the back, round the waist, &c.; and made the corset to fit exactly; for no dress will look well unless this is the case, nor will the wearer feel easy; and without feeling easy there can be no grace, nor even proper respiration.” Peterson’s Magazine, April 1855

This early Victorian corset pattern is made with individually sized hip, stomach, and bust gussets to fit a wide variety of body shapes.
The bust gussets have options for A, B, C, and D cups. Options include normal bust gores or the 1855 version with long gores (for “proper respiration”).

You will need boning and a wooden or a metal busk to create this garment.

This pattern includes 10 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 1 pattern sheet. It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a reclosable plastic bag.
All sizes 2 – 30 are included.


You can see more on my website:
https://www.mantua-maker.com/1840---1860-early-corset.html

 and on Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/459963508/victorian-corset-pattern-multi-sized

Elephant’s Breath and London Smoke: Second Edition

My book on color as it was used in history is now in its second edition. This version has over 600 new and updated entries.

Elephant’s Breath and London Smoke:

Historical Color Names, Definitions, and Uses in Fashion, Fabric and Art

 210 pages in an 8 1/2" x 11" format. No illustrations. It costs only $12.00.

This book will tell you about color in history – the names of colors, when they were used, how they were used, what they looked like, and where they came from. There are dye recipes, paint ingredients, poetic language and general commentary – all in the words of period writers.

Along with the glossary of color names, you will learn about mourning colors, the effects of artificial light on color, advice on what colors to wear, the colors found in cosmetics and theatrical make-up, and the names of the colors of horses. You can read about symbolism in colors, heraldic colors, and complaints about the names of colors.

I have studied fashion magazines, books of dye recipes, art books, painter’s manuals, mineralogy guides, tomes on color theory, metaphysical texts, poetry and fiction, but especially period dictionaries and encyclopedias. Any resource that might give a hint on what a color looked like or how it may have been used was examined, from Chaucer to Chemistry Journals.

Most of the entries were printed in English, American, Canadian and Australian publications from around 1380 to 1922. Because, French was the language of fashion, many of the English terms are French words. I have tried to explain those colors, too.

This dictionary endeavors to define color names in the words of the English speaking people who used those colors. It is especially aimed at women’s fashion, but artists will also find it useful.

Now in its second edition, “Elephant’s Breath and London Smoke” has more than 600 new and updated entries.

If you are curious about color, you will want this book.

It's available on Amazon at: http://www.amazon.com/dp/1505497884

From Createspace at: https://www.createspace.com/5166628

And at my website: https://mantua-maker.com/Salisbury_EBLS.html

Thank you for looking at my book!

The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879

I'm pleased to announce the release of my newest book:

The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879 

Fashion, Sewing, and Clothes Care Advice

 
with over 740 B/W period illustrations.

 

Compiled and edited by Deb Salisbury,
The Mantua-Maker Historical Sewing Patterns

"Taste in dress is the sure guarantee of the lady. Nor is it mere money that makes a tasteful dress. It is principally a knowledge of the fashions, and how to adapt them to your style."
Peterson’s Magazine, November 1875

The art of the mantua-maker was practiced by every woman who wanted to create her own wardrobe. Fashion magazines were studied and dissected, scoured for details on how each effect was created, how many seams were used, and where the pleats were used. They learned why changes were made, when they went out of date, and how to recreate the styles they liked.

 

This book compiles sewing and fashion advice given in those books and magazines during the 1870s, given in the words of writers of that time. Each entry shows the name and date of the periodical quoted. I’ve included as many pattern sketches as I could find.

“The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879 Fashion, Sewing, and Clothes Care Advice” has three sections:
1) Sewing tips and fashion advice
2) Fabric cleaning and care.
3) Bibliography of magazines and books I found useful.

I’ve included over 740 black and white period engravings to help show the details of the changing fashions of the 1870s.

The Art of the Mantua-Maker: 1870 - 1879 is intended for costume historians, Victorian re-enactors, historical writers and history buffs. It has 307 pages in an 8.5" x 11" format.

It's available in paperback, PDF, and Kindle formats. The PDF format size is about 47.5Mb.

You can find it on my website:

 https://mantua-maker.com/1870s_Dressmaking_Book.html

On Etsy:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/211625835/1870s-dressmaking-paperback-book-the-art

 

At Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Art-Mantua-Maker-Fashion-Victorian-Dressmaking/dp/1502832003

 

At Createspace:
https://www.createspace.com/5049907

And for Kindle at Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PR4BMM4

 

Civil War Bathing Suit Sewing Pattern

I'm pleased to announce the release of my newest pattern:

1838-1875 

Early Victorian Two-Piece
Bathing Suit Pattern

Around 1845, the two-piece bathing suit for American and English ladies came into existence – before that time most women wore a long shirt-like garment.  The earliest reference to a suit with drawers I've found was in 1838 in France, and in America in 1848.

This type of bathing dress, with the skirt and blouse made together and with separate trousers, was alarmingly avant-garde in 1838, and acceptable but old-fashioned by 1865.  It was popular during the Civil War, and still worn as late as 1875. 

The pattern has several variations. It may be made with a high neckline with or without a collar, or with a lower neckline.  The long or short sleeves can be enclosed in a cuff, confined with elastic, or left open in a bell shape. The blouse skirt may be made from mid-thigh to below the knee in length. A separate belt confines the waist. The trousers may be made in the wide Turkish style or normal width, from below-knee to ankle length, and also may be enclosed in a cuff, confined with elastic, or left open at the bottom.

This pattern includes 18 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 5 pattern sheets.  It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a reclosable plastic bag. 

All sizes Petite – Full (bust: 26" – 61") are included.
 

#1800-4 --- $23

 
See it on Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/209643205/victorian-bathing-suit-pattern-multi
 
or at my website:
https://mantua-maker.com/Victorian_Bathing_Suits.html

Another Bathing Suit Pattern

Actually, this one is a Swimming Dress, and was intended for serious swimmers.

Based on an engraving in Harper's Bazar, 
July 9, 1887, the "Lady's Swimming Dress" consists of only the waist and drawers, without a skirt. It's simple to make!

It is unlined and bound at the edges. It opens at the shoulders only, and you step in and out of it. The trousers can be made in knee or mid-calf lengths – or in the very short French length, which English ladies complained looked like a circus-rider's outfit. I've also included a pattern for a simple bathing cap.

 This pattern includes 6 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 3 pattern sheets. It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a reclosable plastic bag.

All sizes Petite – Full (bust: 26" – 61") are included.



You can find it at:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/156364512/victorian-bathing-suit-pattern-new-easy
and 
https://mantua-maker.com/Victorian_Bathing_Suits.html

Announcing a New Victorian Bathing Suit Pattern

After a long hiatus, I'm back with a new pattern – a Grecian-Style Bathing Suit for 1870 to 1890.

Around 1850, the Bathing Dress for ladies came into existence – before that time women wore a long shirt-like garment.  The earliest reference to a suit with drawers I've found was in 1852. But once fashion got hold of the bathing suit, the dress evolved rapidly.  Some bathing suits were downright gorgeous. Like, in my opinion, this one!

The August 1870 issue of Peterson's Magazine shows a lovely outfit: "Fig. X. – Bathing-Costume of White Flannel. – Trousers fastened at the knee by a cross strip braided with a Grecian pattern in black wool.  Peplum blouse, with short sleeves, with a braided Grecian pattern, buttoned on each side and on the shoulders."  This is the outfit featured in my pattern.

The bathing dress opens at the shoulders and both sides.  The blouse can be made with or without sleeves.  The drawers can be made in calf or ankle lengths, and can be gathered into cuffs. You can make it with or without the separate skirt.

Victoria's skirt came out a couple of inches too short – I forgot she's a good six inches taller than I am. LOL!

Can't you see yourself lounging beside the pool in this outfit?

You can purchase it now at Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/153370811/victorian-bathing-suit-pattern-new

Happy sewing.

Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

The Mantua-Maker

In my other life, I am the Mantua-Maker. Or, more accurately, I am the owner of the Mantua-Maker line of historical sewing patterns.

What is a mantua maker?

The mantua was a fashionable style of gown in the late 1600's. While the mantua was popular, women gained the legal right to make this loose, flowing gown. Before this time, women could make underwear, but only male tailors were allowed to make upper class clothing and corsets - by law! Women won the right to make unboned gowns during this period, and these women were know as Mantua-makers.

These women quickly branched out to hats and accessories, then to other types of clothing. Since the unboned mantua was popular for only a couple of decades, expanding was necessary for the female dressmakers' survival, no matter how much the tailors complained.

The term mantua-maker was used for a fashionable dress designer/creator long after the mantua was forgotten, even as late as the 1890's. It was replaced by the more modern term of modiste.

In my current novel, Monsoon Rain, Rosette aspires to become a Mantua-Maker. She has studied fashion trends, present and past.

Monsoon Rain is now up to 31,175 words. I'm writing a bit slower than I'd planned, but I'm pleased with the quality.